"Threads of Tradition: Uganda's Used Clothing Market Faces Uncertain Future"

KAMPALA (UGANDA) — In the heart of Uganda's bustling capital, the Owino secondhand market has been a lifeline for Ms Hadija Nakimuli and countless others for almost three decades. As a widowed shopkeeper, the market helped her build a home and raise 12 children. However, the looming possibility of a government ban on the sale of used clothing now threatens to sever this crucial lifeline for Ms Nakimuli and tens of thousands of vendors who call Owino their home.

"Where is our future if they stop secondhand clothes?" questioned the 62-year-old, sorting through her assortment of dresses, shoes, bags, and underwear. Established in 1971, the sprawling market is a vital source of employment, with approximately 80,000 people, 70 percent of them women, according to Kampala city authorities.

Joseph Barimugaya, a menswear vendor, emphasized the broad spectrum of clients, including ministers and members of parliament, who rely on the affordable options provided by the secondhand clothing trade. "This trade should not be tampered with. Everyone benefits, including the government, which gets taxes," he asserted.

Navigating the narrow alleys of the market, customers eagerly seek bargains, with secondhand items offering a cost-effective alternative to new garments. A Pierre Cardin blazer, for instance, can be purchased for 40,000 Ugandan shillings (S$15), a mere fraction of the cost of a new one.

Robert Twimukye, a 27-year-old teacher, exemplifies the majority of Ugandans who rely on used clothing due to financial constraints. "As a teacher, I earn less than 500,000 Ugandan shillings. If I am to buy a new garment, it means I would spend all my salary on clothing," he explained.

While no official figures are available, the Uganda Dealers in Used Clothings and Shoes Association estimates that one in three Ugandans, roughly 16 million people, wear used clothing. Allan Zavuga, retail manager of Think Twice, emphasized the widespread reliance on secondhand items, stating, "Banning it in Uganda is doing a disservice to the population and also the country at large," and highlighted the environmental benefits of reusing clothing instead of contributing to new production.

East Africa imports a significant portion of the world's used clothing, providing jobs for around 355,000 people who earn US$230 million a year, according to a 2017 study by the US government's aid agency, USAID. However, this sector has been a contentious issue for African governments, citing its negative impact on the domestic textile industry.

As Uganda grapples with the future of its used clothing market, the debate extends beyond commerce, touching on cultural and economic threads that have woven through the fabric of the nation for decades.

"Threads of Contention: Uganda's Battle Against Secondhand Clothes Sparks Economic and Cultural Tensions"

President Yoweri Museveni's declaration of war on secondhand clothes in Uganda, citing the promotion of African wear, has ignited a debate that goes beyond commerce, delving into questions of dignity, cultural identity, and economic independence. "These clothes are from the dead in a foreign country. When a white (person) dies, the clothes are sent to Africa," remarked President Museveni in August of this year.

In an interview with AFP, Uganda's state minister for trade, Mr David Bahati, emphasized the government's perspective on the matter, framing it as a matter of dignity. If the proposed ban is enacted, Mr Bahati believes that the nation can gradually replace secondhand clothes, offering incentives to investors and exploring avenues to process cotton into new garments to meet market demands.

This is not the first time Uganda has contemplated such a ban. In 2016, President Museveni's attempt to ban used clothing faced opposition from the Kampala City Traders Association and diplomatic challenges within the East African Community. The alliance cracked as Kenya, Tanzania, and Uganda expressed concerns about potential retaliatory actions affecting their duty-free access to US markets. In the end, Rwanda stood alone in imposing steep taxes on used clothing in 2016, leading to a drop in imports and an increase in smuggling.

The geopolitical implications are far removed from the daily concerns of shoppers and sellers at Owino. Harriet Musoke Kyambadde, a second-generation shopkeeper, expressed frustration, questioning the government's decision-making process. "Banning this business will be sending me into abject poverty," she declared, highlighting the personal and economic stakes at play.

As Uganda navigates the complex intersection of tradition, economics, and global trade dynamics, the battle against secondhand clothes reflects a multifaceted challenge that resonates deeply with the livelihoods and identities of its people.

In conclusion, Uganda's potential ban on secondhand clothes, framed as a move to promote African wear and preserve dignity, has set off a complex debate encompassing cultural identity, economic independence, and global trade dynamics. President Museveni's war on used clothing raises questions about the impact on businesses like Owino, which has been a lifeline for countless individuals over the years.

While the government's intent to incentivize investors and gradually replace secondhand clothes signals a commitment to economic transformation, the proposed ban carries significant personal and economic implications. Second-generation shopkeepers like Harriet Musoke Kyambadde voice concerns about the potential descent into abject poverty, emphasizing the intricate tapestry of tradition and livelihoods at stake.

As Uganda grapples with these challenges, the echoes of past attempts to ban used clothing and the geopolitical intricacies involved serve as a backdrop to the current debate. The battle against secondhand clothes reveals a multifaceted struggle, where cultural heritage intersects with economic realities, presenting a nuanced picture of the delicate balance between tradition and progress in the nation's quest for self-sufficiency. The outcome of this debate will likely shape not only the future of Owino and its vendors but also the broader narrative of Uganda's economic and cultural identity on the global stage.